workwear
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Carhartt WIP vs Original Carhartt: What to Know Before You Buy
Words by Heather June Coombs
The reissue is fine. The original is better. Here is why.
Carhartt WIP vs Original Carhartt: What to Know Before You Buy
People often confuse Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP) with the original American workwear brand. While they share a name and a logo, their purpose, fit, and target audience are distinct. One is built for the job site, the other for the street. Knowing the difference stops you buying the wrong thing.
The Original: Built for Graft
Carhartt, the brand everyone associates with sturdy canvas and double-laminated knees, started in Detroit in 1889. Hamilton Carhartt & Company made overalls for railroad workers, focusing on durability and utility. Their core business remains workwear. Think bomb-proof duck canvas jackets, heavy-gauge denim, and overalls designed to withstand serious abuse. These are clothes as tools. The fit is generous, built for movement and layering over thermals. Stitching is heavy, hardware is industrial. Branding is minimal, often a small patch. These are not fashion garments; they are functional. They are designed to last years in tough environments, to be repaired, and to develop a patina that tells a story of hard use.
The European Division: Carhartt WIP
Carhartt WIP launched in Europe in 1994. Its founder, Edwin Faeh, had been importing original Carhartt to Europe since 1989, finding a market beyond traditional labourers—skaters, graffiti artists, musicians. He saw potential for a more tailored, fashion-conscious line that retained the aesthetic of the original but adapted it for a different audience. WIP takes Carhartt's core visual language—the duck canvas, the utilitarian pockets, the robust construction—and reinterprets it. Fits are slimmer, more contemporary. Fabrics might be lighter, colours more diverse. Collaborations with brands like A.P.C., BAPE, and even Nike have cemented its place in streetwear. It is Carhartt, but resized and restyled for the urban environment, not the construction site.
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Key Differences Under the Hood
Fabric weights are often the first tell. Original Carhartt uses dense, heavy canvas and denim. WIP might use similar materials, but often in lighter weights, or blended with synthetics for a different drape or feel. Compare the heavyweight 'Detroit Jacket' from Carhartt mainline to a ‘Michigan Coat’ from WIP; the core aesthetic is there, but the heft is not. Construction also varies. While both are well-made, original Carhartt prioritises reinforcement and features like triple-stitched main seams and rivet-reinforced stress points. These are present in WIP too, but often as aesthetic details rather than absolute functional necessities. The focus shifts from pure utility to a blend of utility and style. The pockets on a pair of original Carhartt bib overalls are designed to hold tools; on WIP, they are more about the look.
The Fit: Room to Work vs. Room to Move
This is arguably the most significant difference. Original Carhartt is cut large. It is designed to be worn over other clothes, to provide unrestricted movement for manual labour. Expect broad shoulders, long sleeves, and a boxy silhouette. A medium in original Carhartt can feel like a large or even an extra-large in a contemporary fit. Carhartt WIP, on the other hand, follows modern sizing conventions more closely. A medium will generally fit like a standard European or American medium. The cuts are often slimmer, more tapered, and designed for a cleaner, more fitted look. If you buy mainline Carhartt in your usual size, it will likely be too big. Size down, often significantly, or embrace the oversized aesthetic.
Buying Pre-Owned: What to Look For
When buying pre-owned, distinguishing between the two is crucial for managing expectations. If you want authentic, battered workwear, look for the original. Check for the older, larger sewn-on logo patches, often with "Carhartt B01" or similar internal codes indicating classic work trousers. Expect fading, minor repairs, and perhaps even paint splatters. This is part of the appeal. These items hold their value for their authenticity and resilience. For Carhartt WIP, look for the smaller, often black-on-gold square patch. Check internal tags for "WIP" branding. Look for contemporary cuts and potentially more subtle variations in fabric or hardware. Prices on the pre-owned market for popular WIP pieces, especially collaborations, can hold up well due to hype. Regular mainline items can be found for a fraction of their retail price, often in excellent condition. Understand what you are buying. Original Carhartt is an investment in durability. Carhartt WIP is an investment in a recognisable aesthetic, adapted for different demands. Both are valid. Just ensure you get the one you actually want.
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