outerwear
3 minute read
The North Face Archive Pieces That Are Worth Finding Pre-Owned
Words by Heather June Coombs
The reissue is fine. The original is better. Here is why.
The North Face. For some, it is the ubiquitous puffer jacket on every high street. For others, a functional uniform for the hills. But for a select few, the brand represents a rich archive of technical design and cultural significance. These are the pieces worth tracking down pre-owned.
Most of The North Face's appeal in the resale market comes from limited editions, collaborations, or specific eras. But there are also core pieces that simply hold up better than modern equivalents, or offer features no longer available. Knowing the difference saves time and money.
Steep Tech: The Collection
Launched in 1991, the Steep Tech line was a collaboration with extreme skier Scot Schmidt. It was designed for serious mountain use, focusing on function and durability. Think reinforced shoulders, articulated knees, and strategically placed pockets for quick access to gear.
The aesthetic is unmistakably 90s: bold colour blocking, oversized fits, and a rugged, utilitarian look. Key pieces include the Steep Tech Apogee Jacket, the Steep Tech Challenge Jacket, and various vests and pants. These are built to last, and the quality of the materials is often superior to many contemporary offerings.
Finding a full Steep Tech set in good condition is a badge of honour for collectors. The jackets, in particular, command strong prices due to their distinctive design and genuine utility.
The Nuptse Jacket: Original vs. Reissue
The Nuptse needs little introduction. It became a streetwear staple in the 90s, especially in New York, and remains a cold-weather essential. The reissued versions are widely available, but the original Nuptse from the 90s had a different cut and fill.
Original 700-fill Nuptse jackets from the 90s often had a boxier, more substantial feel. The baffle construction was slightly different, and the overall impression was one of greater robustness. Identifying these means checking the interior tags for production dates and fill power.
While the reissues are fine, the true appeal for collectors lies in the vintage examples. They often have a better drape and a more authentic feel. Expect to pay a premium for a genuine 90s Nuptse in a desirable colourway.
Mountain Jacket GTX: Made for Purpose
The Mountain Jacket has been a cornerstone of The North Face’s outerwear line since its inception in 1985. It is designed for alpine environments, offering serious protection from the elements. Look for models made with Gore-Tex. Early Gore-Tex iterations are particularly sought after.
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The beauty of these jackets is their timeless design and functional integrity. A well-maintained Mountain Jacket from the late 80s or early 90s still performs today. The cut allows for layering, and the hood system is excellent. These were built for purpose, not just aesthetics.
Modern versions can be good, but the older, heavier-duty Gore-Tex fabrics sometimes feel more substantial. Authentic mountaineering jackets tend to hold their value and performance characteristics better than fashion-led designs.
Himalayan Suit & Expedition Gear
For the truly dedicated, or those who appreciate extreme design, The North Face's expedition line offers some of the most impressive technical garments. The Himalayan Suit, for instance, is a full-body insulated suit designed for high-altitude mountaineering.
While not a practical everyday item, pieces like these represent the pinnacle of The North Face's engineering. They are historical artefacts of extreme sports. Finding these pre-owned often means acquiring a piece of mountaineering history, potentially used on actual expeditions.
Other expedition pieces, like high-fill down parkas and specific technical outerwear from the Summit Series, also warrant attention. These are not about hype; they are about technical performance and genuine provenance.
Purple Label & Collaborations (JP only)
The North Face Purple Label is a Japanese-exclusive line created in partnership with Nanamica. It reinterprets classic North Face designs with a more fashion-forward and often minimalist aesthetic, using premium materials.
These pieces are consistently high quality and, due to their limited availability outside Japan, are highly desirable in the pre-owned market. Expect refined details, muted colour palettes, and excellent construction. Items like the 65/35 Bayhead Cloth Sierra Parka are good entry points.
Beyond Purple Label, specific collaborations with brands like Supreme or CDG also hold value, but these are more driven by collectable hype than inherent design superiority. The Purple Label represents a more consistent quality offering.
The North Face's true depth is in its history of technical innovation and durable design. Looking beyond the current season or the latest drop, the pre-owned market offers access to genuinely superior products. Sometimes the best new piece is an old one.
