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3 minute read
CP Company: The Pieces Worth Finding Pre-Owned and the Ones to Skip
Words by Heather June Coombs
The reissue is fine. The original is better. Here is why.
The CP Company You Want
Not all CP Company is created equal. The brand has a long history, a lot of it good, some of it less so. Searching for pre-owned means sifting through a lot of diffusion lines and era-specific misfires. This is about knowing what to look for and, crucially, what to leave behind. Focus on the core innovations and the designs that truly represent Massimo Osti's original vision and its best modern interpretations.
Osti-Era Originals: A Different Breed
Osti’s tenure at CP Company, from 1971 to the early 90s, was a period of relentless experimentation. He treated fabric like a scientist – dyeing, coating, and washing garments whole to achieve effects that were unheard of. These pieces aren't just clothes; they're textile history. Look for garments featuring Mille Miglia goggles, but also those showcasing early examples of garment dyeing, rubber coatings, or Ice Jacket technology. The cut might feel dated to some, but the material innovation holds up. Finding these requires patience and a good eye for labels. Pay attention to the early CP Company and Chester Perry branding. Condition can be an issue given their age, but a well-preserved Osti piece is a genuine collector's item.
The Google Jacket and its Descendants
The Goggle Jacket, specifically the Mille Miglia model, is perhaps CP Company’s most recognisable design. Developed in 1988, it integrated goggles into the hood and a watch viewer into the sleeve. There have been countless iterations since. When buying pre-owned, focus on models made from substantive, technical fabrics. CP Shell, the company’s proprietary soft-shell fabric, is often a good bet for durability and performance. More recent Google Jackets in cruder nylon or thin cotton are less desirable. The design is iconic; the execution needs to match. For a true period piece, look for the original Mille Miglia or models from the late 90s and early 2000s when Alessandro Pungetti was at the helm. These often retain a rugged, utilitarian feel.
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Fabric Forward: Dyed and Developed
CP Company built its reputation on fabric. Their garment dyeing techniques are still industry leading. A good pre-owned CP piece should feel substantial. Polyester-nylon blends, moleskin, and a dense cotton sateen are often indicators of quality. Seek out pieces in distinctive garment-dyed colours that show real depth, rather than a flat, surface dye. The signature faded, almost lived-in look is part of the appeal. Avoid anything that feels flimsy or overly synthetic without a clear technical purpose. If it feels like cheap high-street outerwear, it probably is. The joy of CP Company is in the hand-feel, the weight, and the way the fabric moves.
What to Skip: Diffusion Lines and Off-Piste Efforts
CP Company has experimented with various sub-brands and casual lines over the years. Some were fine, some were not. C.P. Uomo, C.P. Collection, and any generic "sportswear" lines often lack the distinctive design or fabric innovation of the main line. Similarly, later diffusion labels aimed at a mass market sometimes compromise on material quality to hit a price point. If the goggle lens feels flimsy, the fabric thin, or the branding inconsistent, walk away. CP Company’s appeal lies in its distinctiveness. Pre-owned means you can be selective. Don’t settle for a pale imitation when the genuine article, often at a similar price, is available. The trick with pre-owned CP Company is to buy the legacy, not just the label. You're looking for the innovation, the fabric, the specific details that define the brand at its best. Anything less is just another jacket.
