fred perry
3 minute read
The Fred Perry M12: Why the Original Laurel Wreath Shirts Are Worth Finding
Words by Heather June Coombs
The M12 never chose a side; it was adopted by all of them.
The Fred Perry M12: Why the Original Laurel Wreath Shirts Are Worth Finding
The Fred Perry M12 twin-tipped polo shirt is a constant. Always available, always recognisable. But the M12 on the peg today isn’t the M12 of yesterday. Not precisely. The original, made in Leicester, carries a specific weight. It's the M12 that bridged subcultures, from Mods to Punks to Casuals. Finding one pre-owned is more than just buying a polo; it's buying a piece of UK manufacturing history.
The Craftsmanship Baseline
The first M12s were designed by Fred Perry himself in 1957. The twin tipping was a response to demand from sports teams for bespoke club colours. What started as utilitarian branding became an iconic design feature. The key to the original's enduring appeal lies in its construction. These shirts were made in England, predominantly Leicester. That meant specific attention to the pique cotton – a tight, durable weave that holds its shape. The collar, always the first tell for a cheap polo, on an original M12 is firm, designed to be worn up or down without collapsing. The tipping on the collar and cuffs is integrated, not an afterthought.
The Tipping Point: Subcultural Significance
The M12's appeal always resided beyond its sporting origins. It was quickly adopted by the Mod movement in the early 60s. Paired with tonic suits and desert boots, it became a symbol of sharp, clean-cut rebellion. The twin tipping offered a subtle way to differentiate, to signal allegiance without shouting. Later, it reappeared with the Ska and 2 Tone scene, then with elements of Punk and New Wave. By the 80s, the Casuals had claimed it, often worn with Stone Island or C.P. Company outerwear. This cross-pollination isn't accidental. The M12's clean lines and quality construction made it adaptable, a uniform for those who cared about presentation. The newer versions, while still good, often miss that underlying cultural weight.
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The Made in England Mark
Modern Fred Perry M12s are still excellent. They retain the core aesthetic. But "Made in England" on an old label means something different. It speaks to a specific era of manufacturing, before much of the UK textile industry moved offshore. It often implies a heavier gauge cotton, a more robust finish. When you find an M12 from the 70s, 80s, or even 90s with that Leicester label, you’re looking at a different beast. The cotton ages differently, softening without losing its structure. The colours, particularly the classic maroon or sky blue, have a depth that's hard to replicate. These aren’t just old polo shirts; they’re survivors.
Authenticity and What to Look For
Authenticating an older M12 isn't complicated, but it requires attention. First, the label. Look for "Fred Perry Sportswear" and "Made in England." The laurel wreath embroidery should be crisp, not flimsy. On older models, the laurel wreath might be slightly smaller or have a different, more angular definition to the leaves. Check the tipping. It should be evenly spaced, cleanly finished, and taut. The buttons were historically two-hole, often mother-of-pearl or a good quality resin. Newer shirts often use four-hole, plastic buttons. Feel the fabric. If it feels thin or overly soft like a t-shirt, it's likely a more modern or replica piece. An original M12 has a substantial hand. The pre-owned market for these is solid. While not reaching the prices of rare Stone Island, a well-preserved, original Leicester-made M12 commands respect. It’s an investment in a garment that has proven its worth, stylistically and structurally, for decades. It’s a genuine piece of British clothing history, still perfectly wearable today.
