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Why pre-owned Stone Island knitwear is undervalued
Words by Heather June Coombs
The reissue is fine. The original is better. Here is why.
Stone Island knitwear is currently undervalued. Specifically, the heavy gauge pieces from a decade or two ago. Talk to any collector and they will fixate on jackets, often for good reason. But the knitwear, particularly the lambswool and mixed-fibre crewnecks and half-zips, offers a different kind of value proposition on the secondary market. One that is routinely overlooked.
There is a perception that outerwear holds its value better. In many cases, it does. But this isn't solely down to build quality. Outerwear is more visible, more emblematic. Knitwear, often worn as a mid-layer, doesn't achieve the same immediate recognition. This impacts its perceived worth in the resale market, despite often being constructed to similar, exacting standards.
The Construction Paradox
Stone Island knitwear, especially from the late 90s through to the mid-2010s, exhibits a build quality that rivals their jackets. Consider a lambswool crewneck from AW08. It's a dense, tightly woven garment. The seams are robust. The ribbing on the collar, cuffs, and hem is designed to recover, not stretch out. These are not fast-fashion jumpers designed for a season. They were designed to last as long as the outerwear, and often do.
Yet, the resale market treats them differently. A pristine Condition A jacket from that era might fetch 70-80% of its original RRP. A comparable knit will often sit around 40-50%. This gap isn't fully justified by material cost or manufacturing complexity. It's largely aesthetic and cultural.
Wear and Tear: A Different Calculus
Jackets show wear in obvious places: cuffs, pockets, sometimes fading on exposed areas. Knitwear shows wear differently. Minor bobbling, slight pilling in high-friction areas, perhaps a tiny pull. These are often superficial. They can be remedied, or simply accepted as part of a garment's life. Unlike a major tear in a performance fabric, small imperfections in knitwear rarely compromise its function or structural integrity.
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And here lies the opportunity. Buyers fixated on "perfect" condition often overlook pieces with minor cosmetic issues. For those willing to accept a few signs of life, the value becomes exponential. You get a garment built with high-quality yarn and superb craftsmanship, for less than a mass-market alternative that won't see half the winters.
The Badge Dilemma
The badge is central to Stone Island's appeal. On knitwear, it's typically affixed to the left sleeve, just as it is on many jackets. It's still there. It's the same badge. But perhaps because knitwear is less of a statement piece, the badge's gravitational pull on resale value seems slightly weaker. This works in the buyer's favour.
This isn't about denigrating the jackets. They remain foundational. But the single-minded focus on them means knitwear, particularly the heavier gauge pieces, exists in a shadow of its true value. There are incredible pieces: mixed wool-nylon blends with a brutalist texture, chunky pure lambswool roll necks, even some of the earlier cotton-linens. All built to last, all currently undervalued.
An Investment in Practicality
Pre-owned Stone Island knitwear isn't just a budget-friendly way into the brand. It's a genuine acquisition of an excellently made garment. Something warm, durable, and understated. It’s less about chasing hype and more about acquiring pieces that simply do their job, exceptionally well, for years to come. Think about a substantial submariner knit from AW06; it’s going to keep you warm for the next twenty years if you look after it. And it's still going to look good.
The market will probably catch up eventually. As vintage appreciation broadens, the quality of these older knits will become more apparent to a wider audience. Until then, there's an opportunity for those who know where to look.
