outerwear
3 minute read
Archive outerwear worth buying now before prices rise
Words by Heather June Coombs
The reissue is fine. The original is better. Here is why.
The Case for Good Outerwear
Some clothes are disposable. Others are built for a lifetime. Outerwear, when done right, falls into the latter category. It’s a functional piece, designed to protect against the elements. This inherent utility, combined with considered design and quality manufacturing, is what underpins its enduring value. The market for pre-owned outerwear is strong. But it’s also discerning. Trends come and go. Truly valuable pieces are often those where innovation, heritage, and scarcity converge. We’re not talking about next season’s fad. We’re talking about the pieces that have already proven their worth.
Massimo Osti's Stone Island: The Original Thinker
Massimo Osti is the foundation of Stone Island’s appeal. His vision for fabric research and garment dyeing remains unparalleled. To understand why his era holds value, you need to understand the specifics. Look for pieces from the 1980s and early 90s. The Tela Stella smocks, the Ice Jackets, the Raso Gommato parkas. These are the grails. Early badges often feature a green edge. The construction is robust, the finishes sometimes raw. This is where Stone Island’s technical reputation began. Later iterations, while still good, sometimes lack the experimental edge of Osti’s tenure. The original articulations, the pocket placements, the fabric weaves – these are all design points that serious collectors understand and pay for. Values for these pieces have been on a steady climb. Original Raso Gommato jackets in good condition can command thousands. They were limited in production and groundbreaking at the time. Their resale value reflects their status as true design milestones.
C.P. Company Goggle Jackets: More Than A Novelty
The C.P. Company Goggle Jacket is another Osti signature, but it’s more than just a recognisable feature. Early Goggle Jacket iterations, particularly from the 1980s and early 90s, often came with integrated lenses in the hood and sometimes even a watch viewer on the cuff. These were designed for specific purposes, originally for car race navigation. They were not simply fashion statements. The real value here is in the fabric development, much like Stone Island. Mille Miglia jackets are the obvious choice, but don't overlook other goggle models from the period. Watch out for the quality of the zips, the integrity of the garment dyed nylon or cotton, and the clarity of the goggles themselves. Discolouration and degradation of the lenses can be common on older models. The Goggle Jacket's cultural resonance with early 90s UK terrace culture has cemented its place. This isn't just about the design; it's about what it represented. Expect prices to hold for well-maintained examples.
Shop from this article
Moncler Grenoble: Tech Over Trends
While Moncler is known for its puffers, the Moncler Grenoble line often offers a more technical edge. These are garments built uncompromisingly for alpine conditions. Think less celebrity endorsement, more serious mountaineering. The fit is often more athletic, the performance features more pronounced. Identifying valuable Grenoble pieces means looking for specific technology and rarer collections. Gore-Tex shells from the 90s or early 2000s, jackets with integrated Recco reflectors, specific down fills. Check inner labels for collection names or fabric specifications. These pieces were expensive when new because of the research and development involved. The market values functionality and robust construction here. Damaged zips or worn insulation will detract significant value. But a well-preserved Grenoble jacket, especially from a limited technical run, functions as well today as it did twenty years ago, and its price reflects that.
Stone Island Shadow Project: The Future Classic
Shadow Project, launched in 2008, was Stone Island’s experimental offshoot. Headed by Errolson Hugh of ACRONYM, it fused Stone Island’s fabric expertise with ACRONYM’s sharp, technical design language. The result was highly innovative and often limited. Key pieces to look for include jackets with modular elements, concealed pocket systems, and unconventional closures. The early collections are particularly strong due to their direct connection to Hugh’s initial vision. Look past the typical Stone Island fan base; Shadow Project attracts its own dedicated following. The value proposition here is different. It’s not just heritage, but innovation. Collectors appreciate the merging of two distinct design philosophies. Examine the hardware, the seam sealing, and the functionality of each component. These are not simple shell jackets. Many pieces were released in small batches, guaranteeing a certain scarcity. The market for these experimental pieces has matured. What was once seen as an outlier is now a highly sought-after chapter in Stone Island’s history. Buy smart, buy early. The appeal of these garments goes beyond their initial function. They are artefacts of significant design periods, tangible examples of technical ingenuity. Owning one of these is not just acquiring a jacket; it’s owning a piece of menswear history. A good investment, if you know where to look.
Related articles
