How to buy pre-owned knitwear without getting it wrong

The Pilling Problem

Pilling is the bane of many knitwear owners. Those small, fuzzy balls are formed when fibres on the surface of the fabric break and tangle. You see it most often in high-friction areas: under the arms, on cuffs, or where a seatbelt rubs.

Most natural fibres will pill to some extent. Merino wool, cashmere, lambswool – they are all susceptible. It is not necessarily a sign of poor quality, but of wear. The good news is that pilling is often superficial. A good defuzzer or even a sharp razor can remove it, restoring the garment. Check how deeply embedded the pilling is. If it comes away easily, it is likely cosmetic.

Synthetic blends often pill more aggressively and less reversibly. Acrylic, in particular, tends to create stubborn, almost plastic-like pills. These are harder to remove without damaging the underlying stitches.

Snags and Tears: What to Look For

A snag is a pulled thread. Usually, it is a single loop protruding from the surface. Often, a gentle tug on the surrounding fabric can pull it back into place, or at least make it less noticeable. If the snag is long, say an inch or more, it is more problematic. It indicates a weak point in the knit. Assess if the snag has broken any other loops or created a ladder effect. If it has, it’s closer to a tear.

A tear or hole is permanent damage. Small holes can be re-knitted, but this requires skill and costs money. Unless the price reflects significant repair work, or you are confident in your own darning skills, avoid anything with actual holes. Pay particular attention to elbows, cuffs, and hemlines. These areas see the most stress.

The Moth Menace

Moth damage is insidious. It starts small and spreads. Moths are attracted to natural fibres – wools, cashmeres, silks. They do not eat synthetics, so a moth-eaten acrylic jumper is unlikely.

Early moth damage looks like tiny pinprick holes, often clustered together. You might mistake them for a weave imperfection at first. Look closely. These holes will have clean edges, a tell-tale sign the fibre has been chewed through, not just worn. Check under collars, along seams, and in areas that are folded away – moths like dark, undisturbed places.

If you find a few small holes, it is a risk. One tiny hole means there were moths present. It also means there could be larvae still in the garment, or in the place it was stored. If you are buying, factor in the cost and effort of professional cleaning and a thorough inspection.

Yarn Composition and Longevity

The label tells you everything. Or at least, it tells you what to expect.

• Merino Wool: Fine, soft, prone to pilling with wear, but can last years with care. Good warmth-to-weight ratio.
• Lambswool: Slightly coarser than merino, very durable. Pills less aggressively. A workhorse wool.
• Cashmere: Luxuriously soft, but delicate. Pills readily. Requires careful handling. Resale value holds for well-maintained pieces.
• Shetland Wool: Robust, hearty, a thicker handle. Excellent durability and warmth. Less prone to pilling. Often found in heritage brands.
• Cotton: Breathable, good for warmer weather. Can lose shape if not knitted tightly. Less insulating than wools. Will not pill like wool, but can fade or stretch.
• Synthetics (Acrylic, Polyester, Nylon): Cheap, often used as blends. Poor breathability. Can pill badly and feel scratchy. Avoid 100% synthetics for longevity unless it is for specific performance wear.
• Blends: A mix of fibres. Often, synthetics are added for strength or to reduce cost. A 70/30 wool/nylon blend can be very durable, but a 50/50 wool/acrylic blend will likely feel inferior and pill worse.

Brands That Endure

Some brands consistently produce knitwear that stands the test of time. They invest in quality yarns and robust construction.