footwear
3 minute read
Adidas Originals — which pieces hold value and which do not
Words by Heather June Coombs
The reissue is fine. The original is better. Here is why.
The Enduring Appeal of Adidas Originals on the Resale Market
Not all Adidas Originals are created equal in the resale market. Some models, through consistent demand and cultural resonance, hold their value, or even appreciate. Others quickly find themselves in the discount bin. Understanding the difference is key to smart buying, and even smarter selling.
Core Silhouettes: Samba, Gazelle, Campus
The cornerstone models of Adidas Originals – the Samba, Gazelle, and Campus – consistently perform. These are not hype-driven limited editions; they are cultural mainstays. Their clean lines and versatility mean they never truly go out of style. A well-maintained pair will always find a buyer. Demand for these models has surged in recent years, driven by a cyclical return to simpler aesthetics and appropriation by new audiences. This renewed interest has solidified their position as safe bets for long-term value. Condition, naturally, is paramount. Scuffed suede or heavily worn soles will depress the price.
SPZL: The Collector's Choice
The Adidas Spezial range is a different beast entirely. Born from Gary Aspden's deep dive into the Adidas archives, SPZL pieces are catnip for hardcore collectors. These are limited production, meticulously reissued or reimagined pieces with specific historical footnotes. Their value isn't just in the design; it's in the narrative, the connection to terrace culture, and the hunt for obscure references. SPZL collections, particularly the older drops, almost invariably command a premium on the secondary market. Jackets like the Loton or the Blackburn Ewood are prime examples. Footwear from these collections often sells for above retail, even after being worn. It’s a closed ecosystem of informed buyers who understand the provenance.
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Colourways and Condition: The Nuances of Value
While the model establishes a base value, colourways dictate desirability. For the core silhouettes, classic, original colours – black, white, navy, bottle green – are almost always preferred. Trendy, seasonal colours tend to fall faster. A blue suede Gazelle with white stripes will always outperform a neon orange version. For SPZL, a departure from classic schemes can sometimes boost value if it's a faithful reproduction of a rare archive colour. However, generic, less "authentic" colourways in non-SPZL ranges struggle. Condition is critical across the board. Original packaging, spare laces, and tags significantly enhance value. Deadstock commands the highest prices, but well-cared-for pieces with minimal wear still do well.
Collaborations: Hit or Miss
Adidas has a long history of collaborations, and their impact on resale varies wildly. Some, like early Kazuki Kuraishi or Palace Skateboards links, instantly become collector’s items. Others, with lesser-known brands or artists, fail to ignite interest and quickly drop below retail. The most valuable collaborations are those that blend the collaborator's distinct aesthetic with Adidas's heritage in a cohesive way, rather than simply slapping a logo on a basic model. Scarcity plays a part, but authenticity of the partnership is more crucial. A hyped release with a short-lived buzz will often plummet once the initial feeding frenzy subsides.
Authentication: What to Check on Older Pieces
Authenticating older Adidas pieces, especially collaborations or rare SPZL items, requires a keen eye. Footwear should be checked against known release specifics: precise stitching patterns, material quality (suede nap, leather grain), correct tongue labels, and insole branding. The production date codes on the inside of the tongue or lining are also key, often revealing manufacturing locations relevant to specific releases. For apparel, check internal tags for exact style codes, wash instructions, and country of manufacture. Specific details like zip pull iconography, button stamps, or embroidery quality are all indicators. The overall feel of the garment – its weight, drape, and material hand – should align with known authentic examples. Fakes often get the broad strokes correct but fail on the finer points of construction and finishing. Look for uneven stitching, poor print quality, or incorrect tag fonts. Ultimately, the resale market values authenticity and quality. Invest in the classics, understand the SPZL niche, and approach collaborations with caution.
